The Uluguru Mountains are rainforest capped and are located 3 hours drive from Dar es Salaam and rise up from behind the town of Morogoro, which offers an excellent base from which to conduct trips to the mountains. The area is conveniently reached while travelling to Mikumi and other Parks on the southern circuit, or makes a weekend break away from Dar es Salaam.

The mountains are divided into two portions, termed Uluguru North and Uluguru South, separated by a lower area of land around the region called Bunduki. Opportunities exist for walks in both parts of the mountains (see map).

The mountains have an ancient history, with their deformed rocks being hundreds of millions of years old. The mountains were lifted out of the African plain some tends of millions of years and the extreme hardness of the rocks has meant that they are rocky and precipitous even today.

On the top of the mountain is a rugged area of montane rainforest and in the southern areas there are also flatter grassland areas. Streams are frequent and the forest is often wet so the trees are festooned in mosses and lichens and tree ferns dominate in some areas.

Biodiversity

In terms of the biological values of the Mountains, the Ulugurus has been ranked in a number of analyses as one of the three most important mountain blocks in the so-called Eastern Arc mountain chain which stretches from Taita Hills in Kenya through Pare, Usambara, Nguru, Ukaguru, Uluguru, Rubeho and Udzungwa in Tanzania. This chain of mountains is of global importance for the conservation of biodiversity. In the Ulugurus, for example, more than 100 plants, 2 birds, 2 mammals, 4 reptiles and 6 amphibians are known from no-where else in the world. In addition to these there are a large number of additional species which are only shared with one or two other Eastern Arc mountains, and hence are globally rare. The endemic species include African Violets, Busy Lizzies and Begonias which are popular pot-plants in Europe, America and elsewhere. Lists of the species found in the Ulugurus are available at WCST Morogoro Office (Pamba House, Morogoro) and on the internet at www.dof.dk and www.easternarc.org

Water catchment

The Ulugurus form the water supply to a number of rivers that join together to form the Ruvu River which flows past Dar es Salaam and provides the major water supply to that city. This water flows mainly from the forest-capped peaks of the Ulugurus, and it is the continued presence of the forest which guarantees that Dar gets its water throughout the year (especially in the long dry season). Loose the forests and the water may cease to flow between July and October.

Local people

The local tribe of the Ulugurus are the Waluguru. They have been in these mountains for several hundred years, but came from other areas of Tanzania. Their traditional culture has rainmakers, traditional healers, many rites and ceremonies associated with passing from girlhood to womanhood and stories about giant snakes which live deep in the forests. The land ownership is through the female line and women are powerful in village life, in contract to most other tribes in Tanzania where men own the land and make most of the decisions about its use and management.

CULTURAL TOURISM TOUR THROUGH NUGUTU VILLAGE

Nugutu village is situated one hour walk from Morogoro center, or 15 minutes by taxi. It is a typical Uluguru village and the people still hang on to their traditional culture. A tour through this village gives you the opportunity to see how people in the Uluguru Mountains live and what their daily activities are. The tour will take one day. This tour is a Cultural Tourism Tour, which means that it arranged by the local people themselves and they are the ones who benefit from the program. In the price of this tour a development fee is included, which is used by the village to improve the standard of living in the village.

Guides: A local guide who knows the route to Nugutu will take you to the village as well as to Madola. The route to Madola is almost impossible without a guide to show you the way, since there is no clear path to follow. The staff of the WCST-Morogoro is able to arrange a guide as well as they can contact the village to inform them that people are coming to visit them. Authentic Tanzania works with the local cultural tourism programme Chilunga and uses their trained guides for all hikes in Uluguru Mountains.

Things to take: It is recommended to take enough water during the trip (at least one litre per person), especially for the hike to Madola. In the Nugutu and Madola it is not possible to by drinks, so while being there it is a good idea to have taken some water.

The tour
From Morogoro centre it takes about one hour of simple walking to reach Nugutu. This routes passes through different parts of Morogoro town. It is also possible to reach the village by taxi, which costs about 1000 tsh. After arriving in the village the road does not go further and an one hour hike up the mountain will take you to Madola, the place where the Lady-witchdoctor lives. This route is quite steep and at some parts not so easy to walk, however it offers great views. It is also possible to visit a small waterfall on the route.

Lady witch-doctor
This woman is using some very old rites and healing ceremonies, which are still part of the culture. She is said to have natural powers and uses her spirits to find out about suffering. She has had this natural power since she was born.

She knows which medicine to use by a voice in her head. As medicines she uses herbs from the forest, which she collects herself. Besides this she can give prescriptions that involve performance of certain rituals pertinent to the community concerned. It can treat a number of diseases such as those caused by witchcraft (spirits and in some cases mental illness) which cannot be treated in the hospitals.

During the visit the lady-witch doctor will explain about her profession and she will show some of the tools and medicine she is using. After this visit you walk back to Nugutu where the women will prepare a traditional lunch. These women demonstrate how they make local food. After the lunch the tour through the village starts, which shows the daily activities of the local people:

Mats
A women-group of twelve women in Nugutu is specialised in making mats and baskets of leaves, which are cut in twines. The leaves are collected in the forest and belong to a plant called ‘mikindu’ in Swahili. The leaves are cut into pieces, before they can be used for plaiting the mats. The mats are being sold in town. The proceeds are used to buy materials, such as pigments to dye the different twines of the mat. The rest of the money is divided between the women of the group.

Brick factory
A group of six men has a small brick-factory. Land is dug away and mingled with water. Bricks are shaped and left to dry in the sun for a few hours. The bricks are hardened by putting them in a fire for a while. The bricks are sold in the villages in the area and Morogoro town.

Coconut chair factory
This small factory is run by a group of 10 men from the village. The factory produces about 100 chairs per week, which are being sold to the markets in Morogoro and Dar es Salaam. The money earned by this is being put in a bank account. This money is used for buying devices needed in the process and paying the employees. In case of diseases within the group of 10, the money can be used for buying medicines and treatment as well. The wood needed for making the coconut chairs is taken from the forests in the neighbourhood.

Traditional dances
The same group of women as who is working on the lunch is willing to perform some local dances as well. They will perform a traditional ‘ngoma’ to show the rites involved in the process of a girl who is becoming a woman. Besides this dance they will explain something about this tradition.

After the tour has finished the guide will take you back to Morogoro centre.

WALKS IN THE ULUGURU MOUNTAINS

Walk to Morningside (alt c.1000 m). Three to four hours return from Morogoro.

Morningside is the location of an old German weekend retreat, which was situated close to a church on the slopes below the forest and above Morogoro. The altitude is around 1000 m, and here the climate is cool and there are few Malaria mosquitoes. The original building still exists, and although it has become rather dilapidated, it is still used by students from Sokoine University of Agriculture as a base to conduct field studies. From Morningside is possible to walk to the borders of the forest reserve, although access to the forest here is not advised because on the top of Bondwe peak are telecommunication towers and special permits are required to visit this area. These are very difficult to obtain and the area is manned by soldiers.

Permits: As the route to Morningside does not enter the Forest Reserve then no permits are needed.

Guides and timing: It is advised to engage a local guide who knows the path to Morningside. Advice can be obtained from WCST-Morogoro on where to find guides. It is also a good idea to set out before 7.00 a.m. so that the walk through the lower altitude parts of the farmland is completed before the sun rises too high (and its gets hot).

Things to take: a supply of drinking water (at least 1 litre per person), some food, a light raincoat, good walking boots or at least trainers with good tread.

THE ROUTE

The walk starts from the Headquarters of the Regional Administration in Morogoro, at the end of the Boma Road that starts from the bus-station in the centre of Morogoro town. From here a track passes straight up the hill from the offices and then turns to the right. This track is passable by 4 wheel drive cars, but it is best to start off on foot. The track follows the side of the hill at a gentle angle as it was designed for use by pre Second World War motor vehicles. Gradually the walker ascends through scattered farmsteads and some heavily degraded woodland/bushland areas to more intensive agriculture in the cooler highlands where the rainfall is more reliable. Along the way the village of Towero is passed, and it is worth stopping here to see the remains of several school buildings which have been damaged by high winds coming over the ridge, and then rebuilt in less exposed areas. The remains of three schools can be seen here! There is also clear evidence of soil erosion seen in the exposed roots of trees encountered along the way, particularly just outside the Towero school.

The farmland areas are a mixture of maize (the dominant crop), cassava and beans at lower altitudes, passing to maize, bananas, peas, beans, fruit trees, cabbages, carrots, leeks, spring onions and even temperate soft fruits such as strawberries at higher altitudes. The zone closest to the forest is considered the most productive and farming continues to the sharp boundary between farmland and forest reserve, which is marked by huge Eucalyptus trees, planted in the 1960s. Inside the forest boundary there should be no farming, although there some small farmed areas are found just behind the Eucalyptus, these are illegal farms. Also there should be no tree cutting, but the demand for fuel wood and building materials means that there has been considerable removal of trees for this purpose over many years.

The walk from the Regional Headquarters to Morningside should take 2 or 3 hours at a reasonable pace and depending on fitness and temperature. The lower slopes can be very hot and hence taking plenty of water and starting early is recommended. There is a small shop in a village half way to Morningside, which often sells soda drinks. From Morningside to the forest is another 1 hour at most along the winding road, or through steep farmland trails if you go with a local guide. Morningside itself is on a small side branch of the old road, and this can be missed if the area is in cloud (which it often is between November and June). Once at Morningside you can site on the old terrace garden and look back down at Morogoro and the plains stretching into the distance. You can also look around the outside of the house and remember that even in the 1970s there was electricity and people regularly stayed in the house. This is the face of negative development in the African context. To the right of the house is another small path which leads to the old cemetery and church which was active here in the past. Around Morningside house and especially in the small stream sides are many examples of Impatiens (busy lizzie) which are similar to those cultivated in Europe.

For those who are not tired out, it is possible to take small paths up through the stand of large Eucalyptus above Morningside and up to the border of the forest reserve. This is steep, but not a very long walk. Once on the border of the reserve, there are paths to the right which lead along the edge of the reserve and give a good impression of the large boundary trees of the reserve, the damage inside the reserve (with small encroaching farms of cabbages), and the dense farmland outside the forest reserve. You might be lucky to hear or see forest bird species from this area. However, the reserve should not be accessed as this requires a permit and in this area it is not possible to get due to the presence of the Bondwe peak communications tower above and to the right. Traversing to the right you eventually find the road to the tower. Take a sharp right turn and head down the hill and away from the small building close to the forest. Formerly this was a guard post, which is now abandoned. Heading back down the path leads you back past Morningside and down to Morogoro again.

Walk to Lupanga Peak from Morogoro (approx. 2150 m) (4-6 hours return).

This walk can be dangerous towards the top, especially during rain. It is generally not advised to attempt the walk if the top of the mountain is under cloud.

A hard walk to the top of the highest peak close to Morogoro. The walk passes through farmland, and into the forest along ridge-top and finally up a very steep slope to the top of the peak. As the last part of the walk is dangerous it is recommended that local guides are taken, that tourists are well equipped, and that the walk is not attempted when the forest is wet. Coming down the steep part is more difficult than ascending, especially in wet conditions!

Permits: In order to enter the Forest Reserve you will need to obtain a permit from the Regional Catchment Forest Project Office (on the left, just after the railway tracks on the main road leading out of Morogoro town). A permit will cost 4,000 TSH per person per day. The money is used for the management of the forests and it is illegal to enter the forests without it.

Guides and timing: It is highly advised to engage a local guide who knows the paths to the peak, and can also help with negotiating the steeper parts of the track. Advice can be obtained from WCST-Morogoro and the staff of the Catchment Forest Office. It is also a good idea to set out before 7.00 a.m. so that the walk through the farmland is completed before the sun rises too high.

Things to take: a supply of drinking water (at least 1 litre per person), some food, a light raincoat, good walking boots or at least trainers with good tread. A stick is also advisable, ask your guide to find you one.

THE ROUTE

The route starts from either the Kilakara Secondary school, or the Regional Natural Resources Office at the end of Forest Hill. From Kilakara, the walk follows paths through houses for the first few hundred meters before coming out onto farmland. Head towards an obvious waterfall, marked on the map and which is usually easily visible. Walk to the right of the waterfall before turning left and heading towards a plantation of Cypress trees, which have been heavily cut for timber, firewood and for Christmas decorations. The walk through the farmland will take between 1 and 1.5 hours and is best accomplished early in the day before it gets too hot.

Passing up through the plantation you come to some natural forest that has been heavily degraded by the collection of wood for fuel and building materials. Inside the forest the path becomes steeper and more rocky and difficult. From here you have to take care. Within the forest margins you will notice the reduction in temperature, often an increase in moisture, and an increase in noise of insects. Often it can rain or be foggy in the forest when it is quite dry outside. The path reaches a ridge top and then round to the right and down slightly. After a few hundred meters there is a division in the path, with one branch continuing round to the left and another to the right which ascends the slope. This right hand track is the one which goes to Lupanga peak. After some time the path joins a sharp ridge top.

Notable birds which might be seen in the forest include the endemic species Loveridge’s Sunbird and Uluguru Bush Shrike, and the near endemic Fulleborn’s Black Boubou. More common, but larger species which are often seen include Livingstone’s Turaco and Silvery-cheeked Hornbill. Blue Monkey and Black and White Colobus Monkey are also found here and might be seen in the trees along the path, often jumping off from branch to branch as the walker approaches. The plants include wild Banana plants growing in the stream bed (which do not produce real bananas, only a kind of nut). Climbing Begonia, Streptocarpus, stands of Dracaena, and the occasional tree fern all remind of botanical hot houses and houseplants in northern countries. Here they are in their wild environment, mixed with a multitude of different trees and shrubs.

After a while the path rounds a large rock. Once around the rock it is possible to climb back up the rock and to perch above the forest canopy and look all around at the mountain, and down to the lands below. A notable spot for some food and a drink of water, but please take all litter off the mountain.

Moving back onto the path again and along the ridge there are a few places where tree roots form handholds as the path becomes a scramble up gullies and over rocks. This is a taste of things to come in the last part of the walk, and hence anyone who finds this very challenging should probably not attempt the final part of the walk, and instead stop at around this point and return safely home.

Once off the ridge then the path starts the final ascent of Lupanga. Moving up through dense stands of tree ferns festooned with lichens and mosses, the path becomes ever more steep until the tree root hand-holds again become the major method for ascending the path. Along the path in the wettest point look out for African Violets. This is their natural home and they have been domesticated to European and American households from the Ulugurus and a few other eastern African mountains. At one point the path crosses a large rock, and this marks the beginning of the end of the ascent. After a few more minutes of hand hold scrambling the top of the ridge is reached in stunted forest which is totally covered by all manner of mosses and other epiphytic vegetation. This is true cloud forest, maintained by the almost daily cover of clouds which brings moisture, and the regular rainfall.

Moving a little further along the track to the left views are obtained of the eastern side of the Ulugurus. The forest is seen well and the edge of the forest and the farmland margins are also obvious. The small village of Kinole can be glimpsed in the distance, and this forms the start of one of the other walks described here. Finally a little further along the ridge top the peak of Lupanga is reached. A metal tower can be scaled by the more athletic and this provides a panoramic view of the surrounding countryside. For those not able to scale the tower, then the view is unfortunately obscured by the surrounding trees. A small grassy clearing in the forest testifies to the many camps which have been established at this point over the years.

You have now reached the top of Lupanga peak. Congratulations. The return path is the same as that taken to ascend the peak, except that descending the steepest section will require extra care as the handholds c an only be used if you climb down the difficult stretches. It may prove useful to use a stout stick as an additional support when descending the steeper areas, as this can provide a useful third anchor point when moving down. Make full use of the trees and climbers for additional support, but beware not to trap your hands.

Tourism possibilities around Bunduki village

An interesting and challenging drive from Morogoro (about 2.5 hours) takes the visitor to Bunduki village where there possibilities to stay overnight within a forest reserve which is partly natural forest and partly plantation, and also in a nearby Mission. From there a 75 minute walk takes the visitor to the Hululu Falls just within the Uluguru South forest reserves. You can also walk into the Uluguru North or Uluguru South Catchment Forest reserves to observe their interesting plants and animals (especially birds).

Permits: If the visitor is only visiting the river bank to the Hululu Falls, or walking along the road in the Bunduki Forest Reserve then no permit is required. However, in order to enter the Uluguru North or Uluguru South Forest Reserves from Bunduki then you will need to obtain a permit from the Regional Catchment Forest Project Office in Morogoro (on the left, just after the railway tracks on the main road leading out of Morogoro town). A permit will cost 4,000 TSH per person per day. The money is used for the management of the forests and it is illegal to enter the forests without a permit.

Guides and timing: It is advised to engage a local guide who knows the paths to the Hululu Falls, although the walk is quite straight-forward for most of the distance. It is essential to engage a guide from Bunduki village if you are planning to enter the Catchment Forest Reserves as they know the paths and they also know any danger points on the route. Further advice can be obtained from WCST-Morogoro and the staff of the Catchment Forest Office. No-one in Bunduki Forest Reserve speaks English (although the priest in the Mission does), so having someone in the party who speaks Kiswahili is a good idea. Although Bunduki is at high altitude (around 1600 m) it can still be very hot in the sun and hence starting early is a good idea.

Things to take: a supply of drinking water (at least 1 litre per person), some food, a light raincoat, good walking boots or at least trainers with good tread. If it is sunny use suncream if you want to avoid getting badly burnt on the way to Hululu Falls. During some of the year (June to September) a light fleece is a good idea as it can be quite chilly at night. If you are planning on camping, then a heavier fleece and a good rainproof coat is required.

Where to stay: There is a small guesthouse at Bunduki with a house keeper. Although there are no beds inside and the accommodation is rudimentary it is dry and costs around 2,500 TSH per night. It is also possible to camp in the grounds of the guesthouse for a nominal cost. Local cooks can also be found to prepare a meal. Two bedrooms with beds and a generally much higher standard of accommodation are found in the house of the priest at the Bunduki Mission which is 2 km before the Bunduki Forest Reserve. You can contact the Mission by writing to Rev. Gabriel Sengo, Bunduki Parish, Box 640, Morogoro. He is often in Morogoro so this is the safest way to arrange a place to stay.

THE ROUTE

Driving.

You will first need to drive from your starting location to Bunduki. From Morogoro set off in the morning and take the main Iringa road past the Mindu reservoir and then slightly up to the right to the first small village where a well marked dirt road to IDM Mzumbe starts. Follow this road across the flood-plain of the Mgeta River And then turn to the right past Mzumbe campus. The road is then a pot-holed tarmac road and goes straight for some kilometres. Finally it swings sharply to the left and starts to climb up the sides of the Ulugurus after passing through some small villages. The road gets steeper and passes up the side the hill with a small river to the right. After some kilometres the top of the ridge is reached and Mgeta town can be seen below. Follow the road down, and then across the Mgeta River opposite the Mgeta secondary school. Then continue to the right and after a couple of kilometres the road starts to rise again. There is a poorly signed road to the left within a small village, this is the road to Bunduki. If you miss this road then the road will start to climb steeply swinging round to the right. Continuing along this road will bring you to Nyandira.

Once on the Bunduki road it is a moderately difficult drive for 45 minutes along the side of a valley with a river at the bottom, climbing gradually until a larger village is reached with a Mission. This is Bunduki village. This is the best place to buy food and also to visit the Mission if you want to do that. The road continues past the Mission close to a river on the left side, with a forest up ahead. When entering the forest there is a small road which bears to the left and crosses the river (might be difficult in the rainy season). Once across the river it is relatively easy to find either the guesthouse or the foresters house who can assist you to find a place to stay (see detailed map below).

Walking.

1) To Hululu Falls. First you have to reach the guesthouse inside the Bunduki Forest Reserve. Just above the guesthouse is a road passing to the south, which is being constructed and presently only just extends out of the reserve. Follow the dirt road above the guesthouse, and then onto a well-marked path which leads to Vinile Village, Primary School and to the falls themselves. When on the path, you keep the river on the right hand side and walk along a moderately flat and obvious path. After walking for 1 hour the path crosses the river on a wooden plank bridge. From here the Hululu Falls are on the left up the river. Walking up the steep farmland to the edge of the reserve, and then down a steep and muddy (slippery) path brings you down to the base of the falls. They drop 30-40 m straight from the forest over a rock face and make a cloud of spray at the bottom. It is hence permanently cool and wet here, with strange vegetation including wild banana and tree ferns. Witch doctors come here for ceremonies at different times of the year and hence it is advisable to go to the falls with a local person as it is a sacred site.

2) To the Ridge Top. From the center of the Forest Reserve you should take the dirt road which passes to the north east and through the Forest Reserve. It is possible to get confused between this road and that which passes to the Hululu Falls, but if you check the map and the direction you are walking you should not make any mistake. The path first passes through Grevillea plantation with some natural forest shrubs and a few canopy trees. Later it passes into forest dominated by planted Cypress trees, which are currently being logged for timber. At the end of the Bunduki reserve the road continues at a moderate angle into the farmland and to the top of the ridge. From this point you get a fantastic view back towards Bunduki, with the farmlands below the boundary of the Forest Reserve and a straight line marking the boundary of the Forest Reserves and forests covering the higher peaks. Both Uluguru South and Uluguru North Forest reserves can be seen here. At the ridge top it is also possible to look east towards Dar es Salaam. To the north the Uluguru North Forest reserve is clearly seen with farms and villages below. Even Tegetero and Kinole can be almost seen from this point. Further out from the main Ulugurus is the low rounded hill of Mkungwe and another pointed hill just south of that. These are also forest covered. To the right the border of the Uluguru South reserve is seen, again with villages and farms below. The road starts to descend the eastern side of the Ulugurus, but does not go very far as it is still under construction. Eventually it is planned to connect Bunduki with Matombo through this road. The return path is back along the same route, but with greater opportunities to observe the plants and butterflies of the Bunduki reserve, and the many small streams crossing the path.

3) To the Forest Reserves. A local person will be invaluable as a guide to the edge of the forests. The locally based forest officer might assist in this. The walk to the edge of the forest goes through the Bunduki Forest reserve which although largely a plantation was developed from natural forest and hence the understory and many of the plants and animals living there are species found in other parts of the Ulugurus. This includes a number of the rare and near-endemic species of birds, such as Mrs Moreaus Warbler. Walking further along a small road you re-enter farmland and up steep slopes on either side are the boundaries of the Uluguru South Catchment Forest Reserves. Looking back you can see the Bunduki Plantation and beyond the forests of the Uluguru North Catchment Forest Reserve. In 1955 these two forests were almost joined, but agricultural expansion and the separation by the official boundaries as resulted in the forests now becoming separated by farmland. This means that species of flora and fauna are largely prevented from moving between the two reserves if they are not able to rapidly cross the farmland. Even species of forest birds generally do not leave their forest habitats and hence even a small farmland strip is a barrier for them.

4) Swimming: It is possible to swim in the river outside the guesthouse. The water is deep and cold but if you are show the correct place it is also possible to jump from a rock into a deep pool and then swim around. A refreshing experience on a hot day, but do take care of rocks underwater.

5) Fishing. In the past the Bunduki stream was stocked with trout and German and later British Colonial officers used to come to Bunduki for the weekend in order to fly fish for the trout. Some of the records of the fishery are still available in the Natural Resources office in Morogoro and show the considerable effort which was put into providing the fish for the fishermen and that a Uluguru Mountains Fly Fishing Club was formed. It is not believed that any of the trout still survive, but the river is very beautiful and it remains possible that some descendants of these introduced fish are still alive in inaccessible spots.

Walk from Kinole Village to Morogoro over the Ulugurus (up to 1200m altitude). Requires an overnight stop in a guesthouse on the mountain .

With planning it is possible to walk over the Uluguru Mountains, passing through farmland and public land forest areas and along the edge of the forest reserve. The trip requires an overnight stay in the village of Kinole on the eastern face of the Ulugurus and a 5-6 hour walk and bus trip back to Morogoro across the mountain.

Permits: Because the route does not enter the Catchment Forest Reserve then no permits are needed.

Guides and timing: It is highly advised to engage a local guide who knows the path. Advice can be obtained from WCST-Morogoro and the staff of the UMADEP office given below. Guides should be obtained in Kinole village for the trip. Walk takes 4 hours if fit.

Things to take: a supply of drinking water (at least 1 litre per person, though more is recommended), some food, a light raincoat, good walking boots or at least trainers with good tread.

Accommodation: Before starting off from Morogoro it is advisable to contact the owners of a small guest house in Kinole, which is one of two places to sleep. This is managed by UMADEP, a project within the University of Sokoine. They can assist with making a booking for the guesthouse, which can sleep 4 people comfortably. Their telephone number is 023 2603244.

Transport issues: Because the route requires getting to Kinole village by car, and then the walk ends in Morogoro, some arrangement needs to be made to bring any car back to Morogoro. Often it is possible to take a bus to Kinole and in this case the problem of getting the car back to Morogoro does not arise.

Getting to Kinole: The drive from Morogoro to Kinole will take around 1.5 hours from Morogoro depending on speed and the condition of the road. If there has been a lot of rain then it might be better to cancel the trip rather than spend a lot of time stuck, or helping others who are stuck. Driving starts on the road past the Post Office in Morogoro, heading towards the Kola Hill hotel. A few hundred metres after the Kola Hill hotel the road branches. The right branch should be taken. After a few kilometres this rises and passes over a small hill to access the eastern side of the Ulugurus. The road then descends and passes at a lower altitude through the tropical farmlands of the lower slopes, with the main mountains rising to the right of the road. After around 20 km an obvious road to the right is reached. This passes immediately up the hill and is the road to Kinole. After heavy rains the road can become very slippery in places. It is also used by heavy trucks which bring bananas, pineapples and other products from the mountains. These often get stuck and hence passing the road after rain can take some time. About 7 kilometres from the main junction the village of Kinole is entered and the road ends. The guesthouse is found on the left just behind the school. Asking for the UMADEP guesthouse will ensure that you find it quickly. There is plenty of fresh food in the village, and a few small restaurants which serve tea, mandazi, rice and beans and even cold sodas. It will be necessary to engage guides to take you on the over the mountain, and these should be contacted and prices agreed the night before setting off.

THE ROUTE

The route starts from the village of Kinole and then passes through the village to the right and eventually leads to a small river which has to be crossed on stones. In the rainy season this may be difficult (April to June).

Then the path follows the left hand margin of a valley, rising quite gently, with good views over the Kitundu Hills on the right (part of the main Uluguru range). Looking through binoculars will reveal that much of the forest on these hills has either been cleared, is being cleared now, or has been partially cleared and underplanted with bananas. This area of forest is outside of the protection of the Ulguru Catchment Forest Reserves and hence is available for conversion to farmland. This a benefit to some of the local people, but is a major problem for the water catchment functions for the water flowing to Dar es Salaam, and also negatively affects the biodiversity of the mountains, including removing habitat for the endemic Uluguru Bush Shrike which used to be found in this area.

Further on the path turns to the left and rises steeply out of the valley and up onto open farmland areas with pineapples and maize fields. It can be very hot in this area. At least a further 1 hour is needed for this section before the path re-enters remnant forest patches and is much cooler. Heading into the forest patches brings you to the border of the forest reserve (to the left) and the former public land forests (to the right). Even in 1982 the forests were continuous with large areas of public land forest remaining under the authority of the local chief (Kingalu). Since that time the land has been allocated to individuals and now little forest remains and this is being rapidly cleared.

The path enters into forest patches that are continuous with the reserve. It starts off quite steep but soon levels off and starts dipping in and out of the forest and also encroaching farmland areas. A few stumps of huge Camphor trees are also still visible from past logging in the public land forests. In the forested areas it is possible to see Black and White Colobus and Blue Monkeys. Soon afterwards the path follows a ridge with steep declines in either side into valleys below. Along this path next to a large tree and between two stones you come across a large pile of grass and flowers. This marks the border between the land of chief Kingalu and the next chief. It is the tradition to place grass on top of this pile as one passes by….

The speciality species of this part of the Uluguru forest is the Uluguru Bush Shrike. This is an extremely difficult bird to see, as it is almost exclusively confined to the high canopy. It is more often heard, and the most common call/song of UBS is a loud, sharp, but not shrill fanfare pupuPuij, as noted very similar to the most common call of Fuelleborn’s Black Boubou. This can be varied as pupuPuij-Puij or pu-Puij or simply Puij. In addition to these calls we also heard a simple zok!, like a click of the tongue, very similar to the call/song of Green Barbet Stactolaema olivacea, but more powerful. This call was also produced in quick series of two, three or more. The loss of the Public Land forest has reduced the area of habitat for this species as it prefers forest between 1300 and 1700 m and is only found in Uluguru North Forest Reserve.

Finally, the top of the ridge is reached at 1400 m where it is possible to se right across the plains to the east of Morogoro. It is certainly possible to see the nearby sisal estates and the road to Dar es Salaam, and it might even be possible to see the Nguru and Nguu mountain ranges close to Turiani if there no clouds or haze. These are the nearest series of mountains similar to the Ulugurus, separated by a dry plain inhospitable to the animal and plant species of wet forests.

Now the path descends steeply down the mountain through the banana plantations that are all around and indicate areas which were until recently forested. Just below the bananas you enter the village of Bohomelo where the path veers to the right and becomes a bit less steep. It then joins a ridge that takes you to the village of Mgolole where finally the path flattens off and you join the road to the mission. Once in the village it is possible to buy drinks while you wait for the local bus to take you back to Morogoro town.

Walk to Lukwangule Plateau from Nyandira (and access from Morogoro) (approx. 2400 m) (4-6 hours return).

An interesting and challenging drive from Morogoro (about 2 hours) takes the visitor to Nyandira village where there is a good guesthouse. From there a 30 minute drive takes the visitor to Tchenzema village from where the walk through farmland, forest and onto the grasslands of the Lukwangule Plateau (and even higher to the highest peaks of the Ulugurus) starts.

Permits: In order to enter the Forest Reserve you will need to obtain a permit from the Regional Catchment Forest Project Office (on the left, just after the railway tracks on the main road leading out of Morogoro town). A permit will cost 4,000 TSH per person per day. The money is used for the management of the forests and it is illegal to enter the forests without a permit.

Guides and timing: It is highly advised to engage a local guide who knows the paths to the Lukwangule Plateau from Tchenzema village as it is possible to get lost in the forest and not reach the plateau. Advice can be obtained from WCST-Morogoro and the staff of the Catchment Forest Office. Very few people in Nyandira or Tchenzema speak English, so having someone in the party who speaks Kiswahili is a good idea. Although Tchenzema is at high altitude (around 1900 m) it can still be very hot in the sun and hence starting early is a good idea. If you are camping then taking a cook/porter is a good idea as its much nicer not to have to carry all your own stuff.

Things to take: a supply of drinking water (at least 1 litre per person), some food, a light raincoat, good walking boots or at least trainers with good tread. A stick is also advisable, ask your guide to find you one. During much of the year (March through to October) a light fleece is a good idea as it can be quite chilly at 2400 m. If you are planning on camping, then a heavier fleece and a good rainproof coat is required.

THE ROUTE

Before setting off you should ensure that there is a place to stay at Nyandira. A phone call to UMADEP (tel 023 2603244) will confirm whether there is room and you can make a booking.

Driving.

You will first need to drive from your starting location to Nyandira for an overnight stop. From Morogoro you take the main Iringa road past the Mindu reservoir and then slightly up to the right to the first small village where a well marked dirt road to IDM Mzumbe starts. Follow this road across the flood-plain of the Mgeta River? And then turn to the right past Mzumbe campus. The road is then a pot-holed tarmac road and goes straight for some kilometres. Finally it swings sharply to the left and starts to climb up the sides of the Ulugurus after passing through some small villages. The road gets steeper and passes up the side the hill with a small river to the right. After some kilometres the top of the ridge is reached and Mgeta town can be seen below. Follow the road down, and then accorss the Mgeta River opposite the Mgeta secondary school. Then continue to the right and after a few kilometres the road starts to rise again. From here the driving can be difficult depending on the rains and hence the state of the road. After some kilometres of steep and rough roads a green sign board at a bend mentions UMADEP. You are now very close to Nyandira village. On the last bend before the village is a large guesthouse off to the right. This can sleep up to 30 people and is the UMADEP guesthouse. If you go too far, then you arrive in a largish village called Nyandira. Turn back. From the guesthouse you turn right and enter Nyandira village. Just at the start of the village there is a road to the left with a sign to Tchenzema. Take this turn and drive carefully up and around the large valley to get to Tchenzmea. This is not easy when wet and there is a large drop, so take care and use 4 WD when needed. After going around the valley (see map below) you arrive at Tchenzema and need to park close to the village chairman’s office. It’s a good idea to visit the chairman and sign the visitors book. They can provide guides (1500 to 3000 TSH max per day), but you should resist requests to pay them for walking to the forest. This is not required. Show your catchment permit!

Walking.

The path starts from just opposite the chairman’s house and follows a slope across the farmland at a reasonable angle for walking. However, you will notice that you are at some altitude as it seems harder than it looks. The path eventually turns sharply to the right and up and there are a couple of steep sections and gentler sections before reaching the edge of the forest reserve. The path through the forest is large and clear, although it has steep sections from time to time and care needs to be taken when the ground is wet (most of the time), and especially during rainfall. The path winds up and close to large rocks, with a river gorge to the right which can sometimes be seen through the tree canopy. At one critical point there is a major divide in the path, a larger branch goes to the left and a smaller one to the right. Do not take the path to the left as this is for firewood collection (illegal) and does not reach the plateau. Many birds can be seen and heard in the forests, and the trees are often festooned by lichens and smaller epiphytic plants. Birds commonly seen here are the endemic Loveridges Sunbird, the near endemic Mrs Moreaus Warbler and Fuelleborn’s Black Boubou, together with the larger Livingstone’s Tauraco and Silvery-cheeked Hornbill. The calls of the Tauraco are obvious over huge distances and may be accompanied with sounds of Blue and Black and White Colobus Monkey. Mrs Moraus Warbler sounds like a high thin whistle from dense tangles and the Boubou is able to produce vast array of sounds, including accurate mimics of other species in the area. The plant life can also be spectacular with many colourful flowers of trees, shrubs and herbs and a vast diversity of plant forms. Even chameleons and snakes and endemic species of frogs can be seen in the forests here. After walking for a while in some gentler slopes, crossing a couple of streams which are safe to drink from, the path again becomes steeper and the forest is reduced in height. Some small gaps are seen in the forest and the species composition of the trees changes with some heathland plants being found. A final ridge is ascented and the path breaks through the trees and out onto the grasslands of the Luwangule Plateau. Many of the plants here are endemic, including the most common grass species, indicating that this has been grassland for a very long time. The path continues across the Plateau, gently undulating up and down, with streams and bogs in the lower areas and some patches of forest at higher points. The wetlands are home to another species of amphibian that is endemic to the Ulugurus, and can be seen in the small patches of open water.

If the intention is to camp, then finding a place close to a water supply is a good idea. Taking great care not to start fires is also required as every year much of the Plateau burns and these fires are expanding the areas of the grasslands at the expense of the forest patches. At night there is an amazing view of the stars and there are often the chattering calls of the Mountain Galago, which has its largest known population in the forests of Uluguru South. Often the Plateau is cloud free when the lower surrounding areas can have thunderstorms or clouds. Temperatures can fall below freezing here in July and August so it is best to be prepared.

Straight ahead the path crosses the Plateau and then descends into the forest and out into farmlands on the other side of the Mountain. It is possible to get down tracks to the road from where local transport might be found back to Morogoro, but this will be a tough and unpredictable journey and is not really recommended here. To the left along the grasslands and then up is the peak of Lukwangule that is over 2600 m high. We have not climbed this peak so cannot recommend the best route. To the right it is possible to traverse the plateau and descend a valley through the forest to gain access to a final ascent up to the top of Kimhandu peak. However having reached 2400 m it is disheartening to descend several hundred metres only to have to ascend them again to reach the peak at 2600 m. If it is really wished to ascend the Kimhandu peak then this is best attempted from Kasanga, and this tough walk is described on another sheet of this series.

For most people reaching the Lukwangule and perhaps spending a night there is as much adventure as is needed. The fact that it is quite possible to ascend and descend the Lukwangule Plateau from Tchenzema should be an encouragement for people wanting to do something a bit different and a bit extraordinary.

Walk to Kimhandu Peak

With planning it is possible to walk to one of the highest peaks in the Uluguru Mountains. The trip requires at least 4 days from the time you leave Morogoro. The walk takes you up the eastern face of the Southern part of the Ulugurus. It is a spectacular walk initially along an open valley with views down towards the lowland plains and up towards the forest. The walk then takes you up into the montane and cloud forests. It is a tough walk and it is advised that only fit and experienced people should attempt it as the weather can change and the path can become slippery and dangerous very quickly.

Permits: Because the route enters the Catchment Forest Reserve you will need to obtain a permit from the Regional Catchment Forest Project Office (on the left, just after the railway tracks on the main road leading out of Morogoro town). A permit will cost 4,000 TSH per person per day. The money is used for the management of the forests and it is illegal to enter the forests without it. You should have the permit with you during the walk.

Guides: It is essential to engage a local guide who knows the path. Advice can be obtained from WCST-Morogoro office, although the area is so far from Morogoro that it is much better to find a guide from Kasanga or Kolero village when arriving. Some Kiswahili will be needed to negotiate with the guide and to understand his directions. A payment of 6 USD per day for a guide is sufficient.

Things to take: Water bottles, water purification tablets, food (there is almost nothing for sale in Kasanga apart from bananas), a rain coat, warm clothes (it can fall to sub-zero temperatures near the peak), good boots, kerosene stove, kerosene (you can sometimes buy this from the nuns in Kasanga), tent (for you and your guide), sleeping bag, sleeping mat, panga, compass and medical kit.

Accommodation: You will need a tent as there is no accommodation at Kolero or Kasanga.

Transport issues: In order to get to the starting points of the walk you will need to have a reliable 4-wheel drive car with good clearance. The first part of the journey on the Morogoro to Kisaki is on a good quality dirt road. The next part from beyond Mvuha to Kolero is on a medium-quality dirt road. The last part of the drive from Kolero to Kasanga is on bad to terrible roads with many rocks and difficult sections. Some driving skill is required here and if there is also rain this stretch should not be attempted. If you do not want to drive this section you can walk. The walk from Kolero to Kasanga takes 3 – 4 hours. If you leave your car in Kolero you must discuss it with the village Chairman and you will need to hire two guards. Probably the safest place is near the dispensary although you need to agree this with the health workers.

Getting to Kasanga: The drive from Morogoro to Kolero will take around 4 - 5 hours depending on speed and the condition of the road. Driving starts on the road past the Post Office in Morogoro, heading towards the Kola Hill hotel. A few hundred metres after the Kola Hill hotel the road branches. The right branch should be taken. After a few kilometres the road rises and passes over a small hill to access the eastern side of the Ulugurus. The road then descends and passes at a lower altitude through the tropical farmlands of the lower slopes, with the main mountains rising to the right of the road. Continuing along this road for some 30 km strange rock formations are found on either side of the road, some still covered with lowland forest. Mining of white crystalline marble is going on in this area on a small scale and the rocks are often seen piled up on the side of the road. A short distance further and the road enters a forest and descends to the Ruvu River bridge. This is Kimboza forest reserve and there are more than 10 species of plant known from this reserve. There is also a blue-tailed lizard that lives in the leaves of the Pandanus palms (in the wetter areas) which is also only known from this forest in the world. More easily observed are the Blue Monkey and Black and White Colobus Monkeys, which are often found near the road and down by the river bridge.

THE ROUTE

Day 1: Drive from Morogoro to Kasanga. At the Church ask the Fathers about camping in front of their house. They can also help put you in touch with a guide / cook. Very few visitors make it to Kasanga so you may well be the focus for considerable attention. On school days children sometimes sell spicy bananas at breakfast time in front of the school.

If you decide not to drive to Kasanga, ask at Kolero for a guide to show you the path up to Kasanga. The walk takes 3 – 4 hours and passes through villages and agricultural land.

Day 2: You have a 4-5 hour walk ahead of you. The guide from Kasanga will take you up to the western edge of Ukwama Village, the last village before the forest, where you will need to find another guide. As you pass through Ukwama Village you need to meet with a representative of the village government (preferably the Chairman, mwenye kiti) to explain who you are and where you are going. The Chairman may also be able to assist with assigning a guide.

From Ukwama you enter the forest. There is a flat area where you can camp close to the forest edge and beside a stream and a waterfall. The pool at the base of the waterfall is a good place to swim although the water is cold. Because the camp site is close to the forest edge you should make sure that there is always someone present to protect the camp from petty theft.

Day 3: Climb to the peak. Try to leave as soon as it is light. The walk takes about 5 hours to reach the peak. Make sure that you have enough time to descend remembering that it gets dark in the forest about one hour before it gets dark outside of the forest. It is a steep walk. At first you will pass through montane forest with a closed canopy and trees up to 30 m high. As you proceed the canopy becomes more open and many of the trees are stunted reaching little more than 3 – 4 m. There is a reasonably clear path for the first three hours. During the last stretch of the walk your guide may have to use a panga as few people visit the area.

There are two other places to camp along the way. At around 2000 m there is a site known as the third camp which is a flat area in the forest. It is some distance from this camp to accessible water (the stream nearby is in a steep gorge) so bring water if you choose to camp here. The final camp site (Camp 4) is a small area of flat land at 2550 m asl in the cloud forest close to the peak. There is water available here although the stream is covered by a layer of vegetation. It is very cold at this site. Just before this camp site there is a good view down over the valley and across the forest although the view may be blocked by clouds.

Day 4: Walk back to Kasanga. This takes approximately 3 hours. From here you can drive back to Morogoro.

Combine hiking in the Uluguru Mountains with a Tanzania safari to Mikumi, Ruaha, Udzungwa Mountains or Selous

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